I believe this is day 2 of a nice big 10 day summer south swell. I had fun after work at 1000 peaks surfing the very inside ripple and catching the white water of the bigger sets. That's all my fear would let me handle! Once out of the water the light was beautiful and whilst patiently waiting for the sets, I snapped this pleasing shot.
Ull's takes the big banana walkabout on a neck high wave - dude - like it or not, you are a bona fide long boarder! Your wife was snapping all over the place on her fish....wish I had a photo of that, but not to worry, it's embossed in my memory as I was in her way a few times!