Monday, March 16, 2009

Moonshine and sunshine.

While dinner was cooking Tuesday night, the glorious full moon was rising spectacularly through the trees of my back garden.

Yes, yes yes, I know there is the wind speed, duration and fetch that create waves but for sheer convenience and tie-in-factor from the previous picture, I’m going to say ‘the full moon did it”. Wednesday was glorious and (despite a bit of wind) the swell was good enough for most to jump in the briney. Here's a nice little surfer boy trifecta!

The ironic thing about a good watching session at Ho'okipa is that sitting there on my arse can actually be quite invigorating.

There's just no way you're going out in this kinda surf and coming back in feeling the same way. Whether your dialed into the conditions or not the paddling, focus, traffic, energy of the waves and emotional highs and lows are gonna jiggle your mojo around (for better or worse). Probably better if you're the one on the board, not  so much if you're the one about to get worked.

Hui!

With the surf pounding on the outside, these little kiddiewinks were having a blast paddling up and down on the real 'inside'. Enough of this practice turns into this.......

I think this is Matt Kazuma and his sprog, look at that little ripper go! Unbelievable.

Ow, Ow, Ow....

For the most part the surfers at Ho'okipa are just ordinary people with a true connection to the sea that makes them feel alive.  It's as essential to their well being as other rituals to the rest of us, such as gardening, train spotting or ping-pong.


A penny for his thoughts.....

5 comments:

Tulsa Gentleman said...

Beautiful seaaaaaa, beautiful photos. It is amazing to me that young kids can surf like your "little ripper". That has to do a lot of build up a kids self-confidence.

Anonymous said...

Hey watch it, you're going into competition with GP. Love the moonshine picture - your moon seems to be so much brighter than the one that lights up Leeds' night sky.

Mater x

Anonymous said...

Lovely post, lovey!

Ely

Anonymous said...

I think TG must enlarge your pictures to make the astute comments where I tend to flick through. I've carefully"reperused" and enlarged the picture of the "little ripper" and if it is father and son then father is a good teacher. Son is replicating Dad almost bend for bend.
Please note your Ma is competing with the OED and making up her own words!

Garden Geezer said...

Hahahahaha you said Sprog, thats what my Dad used to call my youngest brother when we were kids in OLDHAM. I am now in N.C. USA and your Mum has visited my blog(tell her thanks for the comments)which directed me to your Blog. Sheesh and I thought I was lucky leaving the Grimy North for the mtns of North Carolina, I think you might have trumped me. Way to go!
All the best and Ecky Thump,
Paul