Monday, October 12, 2009

Back to my routine.

I saw a high speed chase on the water yesterday. Right in front of me a little mother of pearl fishy flew out of the ocean, pursued excitedly by a stunning long nosed, blue bellied, tail flipping, ruler lengthed fish. They skimmed over the ocean just the way you want your flat stones to, but mo' better. I watched until they disappeared from sight and became giddy from the magical show "wow"-ing out loud, until the next wave came along and made me giddy for another reason.

Did I mention it's good to be home?

Earlier in the day I'd paddled out at Kanaha when a bloke came over nonchalantly on his SUP. "Hey my buddy just had a 10ft tiger swim right under his board, so we're all going in". "Bloody hell, thanks for the heads up", I said and got back to shore dry as a bone. All lubed up but not ready to give up, I jumped in the truck and headed to the West Side and scored some perfect little waves.

Never say never, but I can say I'll never get barreled....except outside of HighTech.


Anonymous said...

Just knew there was a wise head on those shoulders - better be dry than eaten by a tiger!

I'm sure you're speaking English but what the hell does "being barrelled" mean? It's not a term we Leodensians use.

Mater x

Anonymous said...

Just enlarged the picture of you SUPing and you look a bit like "Sharon, warrior queen of the Pacific". Wouldn't like to cross you with that facial expression.

Mater x

Warrior Queen of The Pacific said...

"A barrel is where the wave is hollow when it is breaking. For some surfers it's the be all and end all of surfing. Sometimes called a Tube."

Anonymous said...

That title definitely suits you and your mother always wanted to have royalty in the family :-)