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I saw a high speed chase on the water yesterday. Right in front of me a little mother of pearl fishy flew out of the ocean, pursued excitedly by a stunning long nosed, blue bellied, tail flipping, ruler lengthed fish. They skimmed over the ocean just the way you want your flat stones to, but mo' better. I watched until they disappeared from sight and became giddy from the magical show "wow"-ing out loud, until the next wave came along and made me giddy for another reason.
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Did I mention it's good to be home?
Earlier in the day I'd paddled out at Kanaha when a bloke came over nonchalantly on his SUP. "Hey my buddy just had a 10ft tiger swim right under his board, so we're all going in". "Bloody hell, thanks for the heads up", I said and got back to shore dry as a bone. All lubed up but not ready to give up, I jumped in the truck and headed to the West Side and scored some perfect little waves.
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Never say never, but I can say I'll never get barreled....except outside of
HighTech.
4 comments:
Just knew there was a wise head on those shoulders - better be dry than eaten by a tiger!
I'm sure you're speaking English but what the hell does "being barrelled" mean? It's not a term we Leodensians use.
Mater x
Just enlarged the picture of you SUPing and you look a bit like "Sharon, warrior queen of the Pacific". Wouldn't like to cross you with that facial expression.
Mater x
"A barrel is where the wave is hollow when it is breaking. For some surfers it's the be all and end all of surfing. Sometimes called a Tube."
That title definitely suits you and your mother always wanted to have royalty in the family :-)
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