Wave one, dry hair and looking a little unsure.
Now that's better, clearly a good mental enama washes away all that ego nonsense and makes way for pure unadulterated fun.
This was without a doubt my biggest wave of the day!
I must have been out longer than I thought as I've grown a beard!
When Kanaha is too big for me, I know the harbour will be perfect.....and so it was for January 2nd 2012.
The harbour wave has a very distinct personality. It's flat, flat, flat and then an upwelling of energy shows up like someone has flapped a piece of silk. The watery step builds rapidly and it doesn't take much paddling to feel the push. I try to stay high on the lip for as long as I can and then swoop down to the right and then back up to the shoulder where (with luck) I repeat the manouver twice. Technically they call that a cut-back, but mines more of a loose swervey thing that thrills the pants of me!
After you... turtle crossing.
Posing with my favourite #8 buoy.
These last few days the sweet water energy has given lots of smiles, yelps of joy and uplifted the spirits.... and that's just the people around me. Now imagine my feelings, the Yorkshire girl who couldn't swim until she was 39, got her first surfboard at 43 and made her first (and so far only) windsurf jibe at 50 (and three quarters).
Life is full of surprises.